“This is not a mezcal bar,” stresses Silvia Philion, co-owner of Mezcaloteca, the first downtown Oaxaca tasting room. While neither a bar nor a cantina within common parlance, ever since Mezcaloteca opened its doors in December it’s been garnering quite a reputation as the place to go for sampling a wide variety of high quality, un-aged mezcals – and if so inclined to take home a bottle of the spirit at a surprisingly reasonable price.
A Visit to Mezcaloteca Mezcal Tasting Room in Oaxaca: Overly Opinionated or Philosophical
We arrive at the non-descript green building on a warm, drizzly, July evening. There’s no name on the outside. I pull down on a rope and a bell sounds. Silvia arrives at the door, but before fully opening it asks if we have an appointment. We don’t. We peer inside and see that none of the dozen or so bar chairs are occupied. We’re allowed in. It’s a little reminiscent of Dorothy knocking at the gates of Oz, and the guard finally ushering her and her motley crew into a new world. In our case, we’re dressed for an evening out, and only had to walk a few blocks up Calle Reforma – on a concrete sidewalk rather than yellow bricks.
Both the Mezcaloteca brochure we pick up upon entering, and the room’s décor and ambiance, provide some indication of what’s in store as we seat ourselves in front of the cherrywood stained bar. We’re now in the chamber of the Mexican Society for the Conservation and Distribution of Agave Distillates and Traditional Mezcal A.C. We’ve all come to sample, and some for an education, albeit from a rather subjective perspective as the literature suggests:
“Its minimal alcoholic content must be of 45% vol. or more.”
“Avoid buying mezcals that are either rested (reposado) or aged (añejado) in oak barrels. You can recognize them by their amber colour. Wood destroys the flavours and delicate aromas of a mezcal.”
Somehow I think that the makers of Glenmorangie might take issue with such statements. But these are simply criteria which have apparently been agreed upon by a select group of “local populations where traditional mezcals are produced.”
Décor and Ambiance at Mezcaloteca Conducive to Sampling Different Mezcals, Learning
Lighting is dim. The long narrow tasting room is illuminated by smart table lamps on the bar and reproduction period chandeliers. Off to one side are a to-scale copper still and a couple of grey, hand turned clay vessels, employed by Silvia and her partner to illustrate traditional distillation techniques. Vintage wicker encased hand-blown green glass bottles used to store and transport the spirit in years gone by rest on top of the shelves behind the bar.
The inside window area of the storefront is adorned with flowering chiote, the stalk which shoots up from the heart or piña of the agave, its first appearance in the field signifying that the plant is mature and ready for producing mezcal. A framed poster teaches the different varieties of agave used for distilling, and of the Mexican states in which mezcal is produced. Not all mezcal is produced in Oaxaca, although Oaxaca is its largest producer, by a long shot, and known for best quality and broadest diversity.
Mezcaloteca offers 30 different mezcals for sampling. Some varieties of agave (also known as maguey) used to produce the spirit are cultivated, while others are wild or “semisilvestre” (semi-wild). As Silvia serves in small half gourds or jícaras, she explains how to get the most out of the experience, just as one expects at a wine tasting. We sip mezal made from single agave varietals – cuiche, arrequeño, tobalá , of course espadín, and a few others – as well as one blend. Most are produced using a copper still or alambique, but we also try one made using clay receptacles.
Despite Dogma and Air, Mezcaloteca Drives Home a Positive Message About Mezcal
Only mezcals produced using traditional in-ground baking methods are offered. We discuss the extent to which cooking over different woods imparts flavor variation. We sample a pechuga. Pechuga is produced by hanging a cloth bag containing a chicken breast and a selection of fruits in the still during the second distillation. A subtle sweetness is apparent, but we detect no sense of fowl at play. I suggest that any nuance resulting from the meat and fat of the breast is masked by the fruit, but Silvia seems to disagree.
If keeping to the strictest precepts of production of pure, natural mezcal is the object, why then adulterate with fruit and chicken breast? Mezcaloteca does not offer mezcal infused with gusano (“the worm”), a no-no as well. But what about offering mezcals where the agave is baked over different woods? Is there a purest of pure? Or is this part of a ploy to be cool, cutting edge and exclusive. Such an attitude would be consistent with the lack of exterior signage and “by appointment only,” which by the way seems to only apply if the room is already full.
Silvia denies that part of the Mezcaloteca marketing modus is to feed off of snootiness, a trademark of high end mezcal and tequila bars in some American cities frequented by literati and others in the know. No matter how adamant she is, for me the jury’s still out.
There is clearly an incongruity between first impressions and a couple of inconsistencies, and what Mezcaloteca is indeed achieving. The sipping environment is comfortable and relaxed. Silvia does an excellent job of educating both the novice as well as those of us with knowledge and experience in the world of spirits. The sampling proceeds with a suggested sequence; the discussion is enlightening, and reassuring from the perspective of trusting the integrity and motivation of Mezcaloteca.
Fair Price & Fair Trade at Mezcaloteca Advance Reputation and Popularity of Quality Mezcal
One cannot argue with three shots of premium mezcal for 100 pesos, especially within the context of informative interaction; nor with between 250 and 400 pesos for a 750 ml bottle – labeled, sealed and ready to take on the plane. What Mezcaloteca is accomplishing appears to be clearly in line with fair trade practices.
Where many other producers and promoters fall short, Mezcaloteca succeeds, by educating and spreading the good word about mezcal to a broad base of both Mexicans and visitors to the region; and at the same time respecting the importance of maintaining and supporting the advancement of small scale production facilitated through reasonable pricing. Mezcaloteca will hopefully continue on track and be true to a mission which benefits all.
Mezcaloteca is located at Calle Reforma 506, Oaxaca
Alvin Starkman - Alvin Starkman runs Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast. He is a paid contributing writer for Mexico Today (http://www.mexicotoday.org).
