There’s just no stopping Oaxaca when it comes to the uncanny ability of its chefs to take signature dishes from other parts of Mexico and elevate them to gastronomic heights. Borrowing from Puebla is a case in point. As the recipe below reveals, while Puebla is credited with developing chile en nogada, Oaxacan chefs now steal Puebla’s thunder. But it should come as no surprise. Recall that legend indicates mole was first developed in Puebla; yet in modern times it’s Oaxaca with the reputation for producing the best of these complex sauces ranging from mole negro, to amarillo, to verde. But on to chile en nogada, the chile relleno with numerous twists.
Chile en Nogada: Consistent History, But Seasonality, Recipe Ingredients Debatable
Experts in Mexican gastronomy are consistent when recounting the origins of the chile en nogada recipe, but the complete story is open to conjecture. It appears clear that either Monjas Claristas or Madres Contemplativeas Agustinas of the Santa Monica convent in Puebla, first prepared chiles en nogada. Seasonal ingredients were used to create the dish for Agustín de Iturbide in August, 1821. He was en route to Mexico City after signing the Treaty of Córdoba, and stopped in Puebla to be there on his saint’s day, August 28th.
The other undisputed “fact” is that chiles en nogada are most often prepared in Mexico around the time of Mexico’s independence, September 16th, as a meal symbolic of patriotism; the stuffed green poblano chile, topped with white walnut cream sauce, and garnished with red pomegranate seeds, together represent the colors of the Mexican flag.
Indeed, celebrations of Mexico’s independence take place in all manner beginning late summer and continue throughout September. But one writer’s statement that chiles en nogada are available “only from July to September,” is inaccurate, just as the commentary that chiles en nogada are “only served for the several months that the ingredients are fresh.”
And then there’s the walnut. “Nogada” is derived from the Spanish word “nogal,” or walnut tree. Then why does another Mexico "expert" state that the stuffed chile is covered with a pecan sauce? Pecans can be used as a substitute, but the traditional recipe calls for walnuts. The same author curiously states that chile en nogada “is available in late August and September, timed for the annual walnut harvest and Mexico’s Independence Day.” The importance of the walnut harvest is debatable. For example some have tied chiles en nogada to the “seasonality of the pomegranate.” Yet in many parts of Mexico, Oaxaca included, pomegranates are available fresh-off-the-tree, year round.
So in Oaxaca the pomegranate is harvested 12 months a year, and walnuts are available all year round. Since the recipe’s use of the latter is as an ingredient in the cream sauce, availability of freshly picked walnuts should not make or break the quality of a chile en nogada.
But the freshness of other key ingredients, such as local apples and peaches from Oaxaca's Sierra Norte, impacts quality. As featured chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo notes, the fresh fruit enhances the overall taste and texture of chiles en nogada prepared during summer, and into autumn.
Chiles en Nogada Recipe of Oaxacan Chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo
(reproduced with permission)
In Oaxaca chiles en nogada can be found in restaurants 365 days a year. It’s a popular dish at Azucena Zapoteca, in San Martín Tilcajete (of alebrije fame). And in households chiles en nogada are prepared if it happens to be a favorite of one’s spouse, child or a special invited guest. Finally there’s acclaimed Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabera, who includes chiles en nogada as a dish on one of her cooking school menus – all year round:
Ingredients (for 8 servings):
- 8 poblano chiles
Sauce:
- 1 C. walnut halves
- 1 C. milk (for soaking walnuts)
- ½ C. milk (for sauce)
- 1 ½ C. heavy cream
- 1 C. queso fresco (or ricotta)
- 2 T. sherry
- 3 T. sugar (2 T. if using ricotta)
- ½ T. salt
Filling:
- 1 cooked chicken breast
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 T. salt
- 1/3 C. vegetable oil
- ½ C. chopped onion
- 6 tomatoes, peeled & diced
- 4 T. minced parsley
- 1 apple, peeled & cubed
- 1 pear, peeled & cubed
- 1 peach, peeled & cubed
- 1 plantain, peeled & cubed
- ½ C. sugared dried pineapple (or a bar of acitron ifavailable)
- 1/3 C. raisins
- 1/3 C. toasted & chopped, almonds
Garnish:
- seeds of 1 pomegranate
- parsley sprigs
Wine Pairing:
- white, perhaps Riesling
Preparation:
Chiles:
- Roast the chiles (see Note below)
- Drain well and pat dry with a paper towel
- Set aside
Sauce:
- Soak walnuts in boiling water for 5 minutes; drain and peel off papery skin
- Place in bowl and cover with 1 cup of milk for 1 hour
- Remove walnuts from milk and then purée in blender with the cream, the remaining ½ cup milk, sherry, cheese, sugar, and salt
- Refrigerate
Filling:
- Heat oil in large frying pan
- Add onions and garlic; sauté until transparent
- Add tomatoes
- Stir constantly for 4 minutes
- Mix in all the fresh and dried fruit and almonds; cook on medium heat for 5 minutes
- Shred chicken and add to the above
- Season with salt; cook uncovered on low heat for 10 minutes or until fruit is cooked and sauce has thickened.
- Set aside, allowing to cool
Final Preparation:
- Stuff each chile with filling, making sure the chile can close
- Pour walnut sauce over the chiles, on individual plates, then sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and garnish with parsley sprigs
- Serve at room temperature or cold
Note Re Roasting and Opening Chiles:
Hold chiles over open flame or gas stove element with tongs. With electric stove, place on cookie sheet under broiler. Rotate until chiles are almost entirely black. Place blackened chiles in plastic bag, allowing them to “sweat” about 5 minutes. Use plastic gloves before handling chiles. Take chiles from bag and place on paper towel. Remove skin. Score chiles halfway around stem and down one side (T – shape). Open chiles and remove seeds and veins, but for spicier result leave in a few seeds and veins. Remove gloves and wash hands. Chiles are now ready for stuffing.
Alvin Starkman - Alvin Starkman runs Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast. He is a paid contributing writer for Mexico Today (http://www.mexicotoday.org).
